Cosmetology School: Sculpting

Tags

Cosmetology, Costmetology School, CurlPlease, Hair, Hair Cutting, Hair Sculpting, How To

This weekend was a big blur of homework, huge heavy textbooks, workouts with my husband, and cooking. I’m really having to get back into the swing of doing homework, but I’m really hoping that I can get it done in class by following along and filling in my workbook as the instructor teaches. That’s the plan this week.

Last week we studied sculpting hair, also known as cutting hair. To my surprise and delight (my nerdy engineer delight), there is quite a bit of math involved in cosmetology. There are 4 basic cuts that are the foundation of every hair sculpture; The Solid Form, The Graduated Form, The Increase-Layered Form, and The Uniformly-Layered Form.

While performing the solid form, you must hold the hair at 0 degrees after parting each sub section. 0 degrees is basically straight down the back of the neck with the head positioned straight up (no tilt), to the clients desired length. Part, pull hair down, detangle, distribute,  apply tension and sculpt. Other names for the Solid Form are “Dutch Boy” or “Blunt Cut”.

Solid Form

The graduated form is also known as a wedge cut. For this form the hair is held at a 45 degree angle down and out, like towards the stylists belly button with the head positioned straight up (no tilt), to the clients desired length. I love this cut!

 Graduated Form

The Increased Layered Form (increased referring to the change in lengths from the front to back) is the foundation of your haircut with lots of distinct layers or your classic “mullet”. The hair has longer layers underneath and shorter layers on top. The hair sectioned, parted, held straight up from the crown of the head (180 degrees), detangled, distributed and sculpted. This sculpt results in an oval shape.

Increased-Layered Form

The Uniformly Layered Form gives you a round shape sculpt. The hair is held at a 90 degree angle from each curve of the head and sculpted. Also, all of the hair is one length. Kind of like a perfectly round afro for kinky hair that stands straight up. This sculpt gives lots of layers. For guys, this would be used to get your “Justin Bieber” cut.

Uniformly-Layered Form

That’s all for today class! Have a good one!

Lina

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1950’s Pin Curl Twist Style Inspiration

Tags

CurlPlease, easy, Hair, How To, Natural Hair, Style, Twists

Hey Everybody! Yes, I am still living. I have so much to update you all on but that is a totally separate post on its own. I went out-of-town about a month ago and I had business dinner to attend, but I had twists. I didn’t want to look  unfinished so I tried a pin curl style on a whim. It turned out beautifully.

I started with regular medium-sized two strand twists that I had done previously.  I made an off-center part in the front and using the twists in the front, I made two 2-3 inch sections on the right and one section on the left.

In the back, I made about 3-4 big sections. Holding the sections of the twists flat to my scalp, I used my other hand to circle the twists around the  center and base, keeping them as flat as possible to my head and pining them down every 1-2 inches until I got to the ends of the twists. I pinned the sections in the front slightly toward to my face to make a small bang.

I repeated the process for all of the sections. As I mentioned before, the style was on a whim so I don’t have any pictures of the back.

 

Thanks for stopping by!

Lina

Using a Curl Wand on Natural Hair

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Curl Wand, CurlPlease, Curls, easy, Hair, How To, Jilbere, Love, Natural Hair, Products, Style, Tips

I recently purchased a Jilbere Curl Wand from Sally’s Beauty Supply. I picked it up for about $55. I chose Jilbere over any other brand because of the good results I’ve had using my 1″ and 1/2″ wide flat irons that I own by Jilbere. It was kind of awkward finding the best position for my hands to hold the wand, but around the 3rd or 4th curl, I had a nice routine going. I started by washing and conditioning my hair. Then I let it dry about 85% using a cotton T-Shirt wrapped around my hair like a turban. I took the turban off, sectioned my hair into 4 quadrants, sprayed each section generously with Aveda Brilliant Damage Control Spray and clamped them into place.

Before blow drying each section, I applied a quarter sized amount of grapeseed oil from root to end. Grapeseed oil is a natural heat protectant with a high smoke point of around 400 degrees. I made sure to be thorough with my blow drying so that the curls would be as smooth as possible and would require less direct heat contact with the wand.

The Curl Wand also came with this really neat glove to protect your fingers from the hot curling wand. I opted to go with out the glove because it hindered my grip on the hair and I didn’t like it.

First, I took 1″ sections of hair and sprayed the 1″ section generously with medium hold hair spray.

To curl the section, grab the center of the length of the hair firmly, position the curling wand base (the wide end) at the base in front of the section of hair and wrap your hair forward and under around the wand until you reach the end of your hair. Then, hold the end of your hair tought around the end of the wand and count to ten.

 Release the hair from the wand and Voila!! Gorgeous curls abound!

I’m soooooo happy I purchased this wand!!! It did a great job! This style is perfect for special occasions and doesn’t take long to do at all. It’s also an easy style to touch up. The only con is that, if you don’t flat-iron your hair before using the wand, the style won’t last long. However, flat ironing before “curl wanding” takes away the body and volume. Either way, I love this style! This is great date, wedding, and any occasion hair! Two thumbs up!

 TIPS!

• Don’t grab big sections of hair
• Be generously with the MEDIUM HOLD hair spray BEFORE curling
• Spraying Holding spray after you’ve curled the hair will cause frizz because of the moisture of the spray
• Used a humectant/anti-frizz serum on top of the grapeseed oil if you have some available

Enjoy!

Lina

Silk Wrapping Natural Hair

Tags

Curls, Hair, How To, Natural Hair, Roller Set, Tips

After doing a roller set on my hair, I try to also do a silk wrap to smooth it. After removing the rollers, I generously apply grape seed oil to the uncombed curls. If you have some available, I also recommend applying some sort of humectant, or silkening serum. Next, I use a paddle brush with wide teeth to brush all of my hair in a circular motion around my head, wrapping my hair. After “wrapping” my hair, I use a soft bristle brush to smooth the wrap. then apply good old Saran Wrap around my head covering my hair completely.

After the Saran Wrap is on my hair, I sit under a hooded dryer for about 15 minutes. I do not recommend sitting under the dryer for more than 15 minutes because your scalp and hair may start to sweat causing reversion. After 15 minutes is up, I come from under the dryer and let the Saran Wrap stay on my head until it is completely cooled allowing the cuticles of my hair to close.

After the Saran Wrap has cooled, I remove it and use a wide tooth comb to gently comb the wrap down, being sure not to comb the hair too much.

I love the sheen, and smoothness that silk wrapping gives my hair. I recommend silk wrapping to anyone looking to relax tight curls from a roller set.

Happy Wrapping!

Lina

How to Install Natural Looking Havana Twists

Tags

Alabama, Blow Dry, CurlPlease, easy, Hair, Havana Twists, How To, Love, Natural Hair, Products, Twists, weave

It has been raining for what feels like a month here is Bama and I hadn’t had any luck getting my styles to stick because of the ridiculous humidity. I thought that winter time would give me a break and I would have luscious 4-5 day hair…Sike! this winter has been super rainy as of late and I have been bunning forever!! As I sat at my desk yesterday trying to take the  perfect pic of myself to post on Instagram (LOL) I grew irritated because I was tired of seeing my OWN bun on so many of my pictures so I decided to do something about it…There has been a photo floating around the world-wide web of this gorgeous lady rocking some fierce Havana twists… See exhibit A.

EXACTLY!!! She’s the bomb right?!! I had to have them, so I decided that last night [YES last night] I would do them on a whim. I literally looked on YouTube at Black Onyx’s wonderful and easy tutorial on her Havana Twists and went directly to Solid Gold Beauty Supply Store and got the supplies.

Here’s what I used:

3 Packs of EQUAL Marley Braid Hair

Jamaican Mango&Lime Lock and Twist Gel

A Detangling Brush (which ever you prefer)

A Spray bottle filled with water (optional, to dampen hair)

A Blow Dryer

Starting with freshly washed and conditioned hair, I used a cotton T-Shirt to remove the excess water from my hair. I wrapped the T-Shirt around my head like a turban for about 15 minutes. After it was about 80% dry, I separated my hair into 4 quadrants and clamped them into place. Section by section, I sealed my hair with DAX grease [I’m going to use oil next time] and lightly blow dried my hair WITHOUT the comb attachment, not to dry it out, but just to get the rest of the water out of my hair. After the Section was dry, I put 2-3 chunky twists in the section and wrap them around themselves to form a bun, then secured them with a clamp once again.

 

Taking one section at a time, I unraveled the chunky twists and finger parted 1-2 inch sections. I chose to finger part because I wanted a more natural and believable style and straight parts with twists and braids sometimes look so obvious that it’s extensions. I wanted the look of two strand twists. I secured the rest of the hair in the section to make sure it was out of my way.

 

From the large section, I separated a small portion of hair in the BACK of the section. I then applied Jamaican Mango&Lime gel to the ends of both the small and large sections of hair. 

 

Then, I took two wefts of the Marley braid hair and linked them around each other, making sure that the ends of both wefts were even with each other.

 

Grabbing the small section at the base, I used it as the center section for the starter braid and braided the Marley hair onto my hair. I did about three turns for each braid. DO NOT make the braided section too long, or it will show. The braid is just to secure the Marley Hair.

 

After 3 turns to create the starter braid to attach the Marley hair to mine, I grouped my hair [originally the small separated section] with one of the Marley braid wefts to make 2 strands for a two strand twist. Then I grabbed the big section, split it in two and divided it between the 2 strands.

 

Now comes the easy part. I twisted the extensions with my hair from root to end.

 

It might seem or feel as if the braid is going to show while you are twisting, but once you release the hair when you are done, the root with relax and swell, camouflaging the braid.

 

When I got to the ends, I rolled them around a whit perm rod about 3-4 times and secured the rod.

 

When I finished twisting my entire head and securing the ends with rollers, I divided the twists into 4 quadrants again. Sectioning the hair keeps it organized while you dip them in to the hot water and set the curls on the ends of the Marley hair. I filled a tea-pot with water, let it come to a boil and poured the hot water into a bowl. I grabbed each section one by one, and lowered the ends of the twists into the hot water for 1-2 minutes, being sure to submerge each roller completely. I removed the twists from the water and patted the hair dry with a towel.

 

I tied my hair with a silk/satin scarf leaving the rollers in overnight.  In the morning, I took the rollers out and blow dried the excess water from the ends of the twists, Then I removed the scarf.

 

I am blown away at how beautiful these twists came out 1.) because I am THEE worst at braiding, and 2.) It was my very first time braiding or twisting with extensions. The style took me 4 hours to complete, which is so hilarious to me because it takes me about the same amount of time to wash, deep condition and flat-iron my OWN hair. LOL. Considering that, I think I made good time with this style. Not bad for a braiding novice such as myself. To maintain the twists I purchased TALIAH WAAJID MOISTURE CLENZ spray from Solid Gold Beauty Supply which I will use as needed. The spray has tea tree oil which with help with itchy dry scalp without leaving lots of build up. I am so happy, I’m in natural hair love. 🙂 I hope with all my heart that this helps another non-braider like myself!

 

Easy Peasy!

Lina

How to make a Natural Looking V-Part Wig

Tags

CurlPlease, Curls, Eco Styler, Hair, How To, Love, Natural Hair, Style, weave, Wig

Yes! I am still alive and blogging! 🙂 I have been doing so much ripping and running in the month of October. This month I got in a car accident (not my fault and I’m ok. Thank God!), my mom has been recovering from surgery, Homecoming was this month, and  the ever popular Magic City Classic (AAMU vs. ASU) was this month. I am always on the go, which is how I like it, but sometimes it cuts into my blogging and my hair projects that I have going on. Girls just wanna have fun!

 In September (YES it’s taken me that long!LOL) I started a project to make myself a wig after visiting a beauty supply store and seeing these cute U-part wigs on the mannequins. I was disappointed when I didn’t see any that would be believable for a Naturalista’s hair texture, so I set out to make my own. Boy oh boy was I astonished at the wonderful results!!!

Here’s What I used:

1 Wig cap, 1 Pack of 12-inch and 1 Pack of 14-inch Milky Way Que Water Weave in color 1B, Weave glue, a Mannequin head, 8 small side combs, scissors, a needle and black thread.

Put the stocking cap on the mannequin head to check the fit and to find out how to position the cap. Leave some slack at the top of the cap (will be cut off at the end) because when the V-Part is cut, it will increase the size of the wig, otherwise it will be too big.

Take the cap back off of the mannequin and put a plastic grocery bag on top of the mannequin head to protect it from the glue and then put the wig cap back on.

Starting in the back with the longer length hair first, measure, cut and glue the tracks to the weave cap and be sure to take your time and set the glue with a blow dryer for each track so that they don’t slip. Don’t glue the tracks on like a bee hive (in a circular motion to the center) or it will be harder to cut the V part and the cap will be weak in the V-part and hard to sew the side combs into.

 

When you get to the top of the wig, close the part tightly (no scalp showing) with a single track in a U orientation around the slack of the wig cap. Cut the slack of the wig cap off. There will be a small hole at the crown, but that’s ok because you have to cut a part anyway.

At the crown only, camouflage the deepest part of what will be the V-part by cutting hair from the track, dipping it lightly into a dab of glue and placing it on the crown and blow drying it.

See the hole where the slack of the wig cap was cut above.

I used extra track to fill in gaps in the front of the wig where the band of the wig cap is located. You can fill in the wig as you please. At the top of the wig, cut small pieces of track and glue them over the part to add more strength to the part for the sewing the side combs. I did not fluff the wig until I put it on because I didn’t want to over fluff and make it too big.

Carefully cut down the center of the part until you reach the crown. Using a needle and black thread, sew the side combs to the track. You can go around the spine of the comb or in between the eyelets of the comb like I did below. I sewed two combs on each side of the V-part and two combs in the back.

See how the wig gets much bigger after the V-part is cut.

To install the wig, I  flat twisted my entire head, separating a front section, and edge sections to the right and left side to be left out.

 

Used Bobbi pins and fold the ends of the twists up to the roots and pin them down to roots as securely as you can. It doesn’t matter in wich direction you pin them, it will look like this stretching a twist out method.

Leaving the top and edge “leave out” twists free, secure the combs in the V-part around them.

 

Take down the left out twists. Spray the generously with water and apply Eco Styler olive oil gel to the entire shaft of the hair to blend the leave out with the wig. Part the left out hair as you wish! Enjoy the FIERCENESS!!!

I got soooo many compliments on my hair this weekend from men and women. Everybody thought it was mine! I haven’t taken the wig off since I put it on! LOL! I hope you like it too!

Oh Happy Day!

Lina