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This weekend was a big blur of homework, huge heavy textbooks, workouts with my husband, and cooking. I’m really having to get back into the swing of doing homework, but I’m really hoping that I can get it done in class by following along and filling in my workbook as the instructor teaches. That’s the plan this week.

Last week we studied sculpting hair, also known as cutting hair. To my surprise and delight (my nerdy engineer delight), there is quite a bit of math involved in cosmetology. There are 4 basic cuts that are the foundation of every hair sculpture; The Solid Form, The Graduated Form, The Increase-Layered Form, and The Uniformly-Layered Form.

While performing the solid form, you must hold the hair at 0 degrees after parting each sub section. 0 degrees is basically straight down the back of the neck with the head positioned straight up (no tilt), to the clients desired length. Part, pull hair down, detangle, distribute,  apply tension and sculpt. Other names for the Solid Form are “Dutch Boy” or “Blunt Cut”.


Solid Form

The graduated form is also known as a wedge cut. For this form the hair is held at a 45 degree angle down and out, like towards the stylists belly button with the head positioned straight up (no tilt), to the clients desired length. I love this cut!

 Graduated Form

The Increased Layered Form (increased referring to the change in lengths from the front to back) is the foundation of your haircut with lots of distinct layers or your classic “mullet”. The hair has longer layers underneath and shorter layers on top. The hair sectioned, parted, held straight up from the crown of the head (180 degrees), detangled, distributed and sculpted. This sculpt results in an oval shape.

Increased-Layered Form

The Uniformly Layered Form gives you a round shape sculpt. The hair is held at a 90 degree angle from each curve of the head and sculpted. Also, all of the hair is one length. Kind of like a perfectly round afro for kinky hair that stands straight up. This sculpt gives lots of layers. For guys, this would be used to get your “Justin Bieber” cut.


Uniformly-Layered Form

That’s all for today class! Have a good one!